Tag Archives: travel writing

Book Review: ‘Two Middle-Aged Ladies in Andalusia’

My copy of Two Middle-Aged Ladies in Andalusia by Penelope Chetwode [below] is secondhand, a slim hardback book with an onion skin thin duck egg blue paper cover. The silhouette on the front of the two ladies – Chetwode, wife of poet John Betjeman, and her steed Marquesa – is echoed inside in a black and white photograph of the pair. Penelope Chetwode This is a quick read and has the feeling of being written up from her daily notebook, which gives it a charm and immediacy. Chetwode clearly loves the people she meets and the countryside she explores on her borrowed horse Marquesa, on a circular trip through the hills between Granada and Úbeda in Andalucía in 1961. She glimpses a world which would be recognised by other literary travellers through Andalucía, from Richard Ford and Washington Irving to Laurie Lee and Chris Stewart. The poverty and generosity of the people she meets, the love for animals, the mystical stories of the hills, the cave-dwellers, juxtaposed on rare occasions with 1960s cars, bars, doctors and shops. two middle-aged ladies in andalusia by penelope chetwode - photo 4-8-13She gets a buzz when she is given directions along a mule track and hears the warning ‘camin muy malo’, very bad road, and off the two ladies go into the wild of scrub and hill. The details of her daily existence are fascinating, where she sleeps, what she eats, what the horse eats, the people she meets on the road and in the posadas, the roadside inns with stables where the horse is led through the front door to the stable at the rear.two middle-aged ladies in andalusia by penelope chetwode - map 4-8-13She painstakingly improves her Spanish, starting from the point of reciting facts about herself and so discouraging questions she cannot understand: “I am English, I am on a tour in these mountains, I have come from the farm of the English Duke of Wellington and Ciudad Rodrigo. That [pointing to the stable] is his mare. I have come from London to Madrid in an aeroplane.” All of this is punctuated with descriptions of the churches she finds, masses she attends, and comparisons with poetry and art. Charming.

Penelope Chetwode


‘Two Middle-Aged Ladies in Andalusia’ by Penelope Chetwode [UK: Eland]

5 to remember
de segunda mano – secondhand
delgado/a – slim
la silueta – silhouette
diario/a – daily
de circunvalación – circular/making a circuit

If you like this, try:
‘Voices of the Old Sea’ by Norman Lewis
‘Soldiers of Salamis’ by Javier Cercas
‘The Return’ by Victoria Hislop

And if you’d like to tweet a link to THIS post, here’s my suggested tweet:
A road trip with a difference: TWO MIDDLE-AGED LADIES IN ANDALUCIA #books #Spain https://wp.me/p3dYp6-nV via @Spanish_Valley

Book Review: ‘Spain in Mind’ anthology

spain in mind - alice leccese powers 29-4-13A great book to read when travelling, when you want something to dip in and out of. There are poems, travel pieces, essays, short stories and letters from everyone who has ever written of Spain that you have heard of: Orwell, Hemingway, Stewart, Irving, Brenan, Morris, highbrow, lowbrow, and some you didn’t know about. I challenge you to read this and not want to visit Spain. My highlight? A poem. ‘Candle Hat’ by American poet Billy Collins, about artist Goya wearing a hat decorated with candles around the brim to illuminate his work by dark, giggling with his wife.

‘To understand Goya you only have to imagine him
Lighting the candles one by one, then placing
The hat on his head, ready for a night of work.
Imagine him surprising his wife with his new invention,
The laughing like a birthday cake when she saw the glow.’

‘Spain in Mind’  ed. by Alice Leccese Powers

5 to remember
la antología – anthology
la poema – poem
la vela – candle
el sombrero – hat
la mujer – wife